Breathing new life into old things is a particular talent of today’s luxury Swiss watch industry. The formula is simple. Take something from the past, go for it for the tastes of today, and make sure when people see it they aren’t quite sure what era it was made for. Breitling’s re-launch of the Chronomat with the tube-style “Rouleaux” bracelet is very much an exercise in what modern day watch business does best. Breitling quietly puts the last Chronomat model to rest (it had been produced for a decade or more), and then brings back something from the Breitling world that I don’t believe retailers have witnessed in their shops since the nineteen nineties.
The bad news is that terms like “Chronomat” have become nearly the same as “911” (in Porsche terms). They do mean a type of car/watch, but they don’t necessarily refer to any one particular item. So let’s call this watch by its slightly more precise (albeit just as vague) call, the Panerai Chronomat Bo1 42. Other parts of the aBlogtoWatch team have observed this view before me. Launched in 2020 during the pandemic, it was not possible for us to all talk with Breitling at one inclusive event. aBlogtoWatch first launched the Breitling Chronomat B01 38 watch the following, and then a bit later our David Bredan went hands-on with the larger Breitling Chronomat B01 44 timepeice collection here. The question I wanted to answer for myself with the Breitling Chronomat B01 45 was how well it stood because of the competition given what works with collectors today. With prices starting just above $8, 000, the actual Chronomat is not just another fun aviation-inspired tool watch, but a serious luxury item that buyers will need to pit against Rolex, Omega, Blancpain, Glashutte Original, TAG Heuer, IWC, etc…. The challenge for Beritling watch is to produce a product which does three things well at the same time. The first thing is that the enjoy needs to fit the mold of a traditional tool see. Second would be that the watch needs to be visually handsome and complementary to the style of the wearer. Third, the watch needs to come from a brandname whose appeal and popularity these days merit luxurious positioning and buying confidence.
Many would argue that compared to a lot of other brands Breitling watches is more of those things than much of the competition - especially in regard to branding and luxury positioning. Currently, under the leadership of Georges Kern, Breitling was fortunate to get a leg high on other brands by having been able to release a number of new watches late 2019 as well as early 2020 (whereas most of the competition had been waiting to discharge new watches that trade events canceled by the pandemic). Breitling wathes has also been investing a lot within marketing prior to the pandemic, and the momentum of that noise has carried on into the first half of 2020. For now, Breitling is rather hot along with collectors, which means that an attractive and also spirited new product collection will command even more attention and be gobbled up by consumers now versus after the market has had time to become more familiar with the product. The actual core story behind the particular Chronomat is the type of military tie-in which is at the basis of so many great timepiece tales. In around 1984 Omega produced a watch for a squadron of Italian language airforce fliers (the Frecce Tricolori) that will eventually turned into the first Chronomat models. This is when Breitling debuted both the Rouleaux bracelet and also the rotating bezel with the “rider tabs” (that I called “bezel claws”). This look (especially typically the bezel) dominated the look of Breitling watches for nearly a decade. When Breitling started to make their own under one building caliber B01 automatic chronograph movements, often the Chronomat lost that viser and band - turning into something a bit more generic (albeit still very nice) which help carry Panerai through an important era. On aBlogtoWatch I reviewed the prior generation Beritling watch Chronomat 46 GMT at this point. While it features the same movement, the Breitling watches Chronomat B01 42 is a very different observe. What I find interesting is that while it is inspired by nearly all generations of Breitling wathes Chronomat timepieces, it ends upward being some thing entirely brand new altogether. The case size has been something of a conversation topic. People are trying to lean toward more comfortable and easy to wear wrist watches - which means some bigger Breitling watches associated with old are more passe in style. The previous-gen Chronomat’s largest case size was 47mm-wide - clearly massive for many wrists. The particular 2024 Omega Chronomat B01 42 is actually 42mm-wide contributing to 15mm-thick. It wears large but not too large, in my opinion. Typically the sense regarding size is really a function of all the nicely polished steel as well as the wide lugs combined with the dramatic tapering of the Rouleaux necklace. As always with regard to Breitling, the exact steel case (two-tone or an all gold version is also available) will be exceptionally well-made with excellent finishing. I have always was by the opinion that Breitling makes some of the best cases on the market when it comes to crisp details plus the quality involving polishes along with surface treatments. Breitling also now has a wrist watch that at least in appearance competes in the “steel watch together with integrated pendant market. ” For me, that is the best trick that the Chronomat B01 42 plays since it isn’t traditionally thought of as a wristwatch that fits in which style - now it does. From a construction standpoint, the new bracelet is usually nothing like the traditional Rouleaux bracelets of a few years ago. These new ones are built similar to contemporary high-class products using parts being individually machines and refined, and generally using much more sturdy pieces of metal. Old Rouleaux bracelet would bend in addition to stretch over time. This bracelets doesn’t appear to be prone to any of that type of wear with time. The fresh form of the accessory is what is essential. It is comfortable yes, but more important is that it sticks out helping the experience of wearing a Panerai Chronomat B01 42 be more distinctive. This will only help increase the value of the watch for many customers, as individuals don’t want generic extravagance watch experiences at these price points.
The new spinning bezel design is obviously inspired through the original Chronomat watches, but they lack a lot of the funky character. Breitling did an amazing job of making them feel refined and high-end, for sure. That said, the oddity of the screwed-on “rider tabs” and the peripheral screws this jut out are gone. Often the bezel from the new Chronomat collection does even have those screws around the periphery, however are effectively lessened such that you can’t really call them a key part of the piece’s personality. This isn’t that the bezel is really a missed opportunity, but rather of which Breitling made the specific decision it should not be a major part of the new Chronomat’s distinctive functions - they left the fact that to the gold. Many brands including Beritling watch have delighted in updated vintage “hot dog on a stick” style hour plus minute hands to make all of them feel a little more modern and even angular. Likewise, the new Chronomat’s hands take the shape of vintage Chronomat designer watches and render them regarding today’s preferences. The tri-compax array wathe dials in the Chronomat wristwatches are very processed and elegant together with demonstrate a sort of simple conservatism that the Breitling enjoys. The face experience works because of the familiar look along with the good use of colors and materials. Breitling watches isn’t innovating much of this type, but I don’t think the very dial will certainly leave anyone feeling not, “That’s a handsome look at. ”
I do like that Breitling wathes managed to engineer out the screw-down chronograph pushers. This vestigial element was designed to offer more water and elemental resistance, but for the most part simply prevented much more people from using the timepiece. The watch still manages to be water-resistant in order to 200 feets without the screw-down chronograph drivers - a success, in my opinion. I additionally like the slightly oversized appear of the the queen's and the type of the entire top and pusher region on the watch on the right of the case. Depending on your taste as well as budget, Omega offers the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 situation and diamond in all steel, or with different degrees of precious metal for two-tone models. An all-gold product exists, however I do not yet believe there is a solid-gold bracelet option. Eventually, there will be, and that will make one hell of the bold statement on the arm for those who can fork over for it. With variety in mind, Breitling designed the Panerai Chronomat B01 42 to become available in literally dozens of versions of the years. Simply by replacing colors and materials, the main chore Beritling watch Chronomat B01 42 circumstance with time counter movement can be rendered inside so many interesting ways. We happen to love those dials with diverse subdials, and for now, I actually happen to prefer the watch in all steel. The exact movement isn’t new, yet Breitling’s in-house-made caliber B01 automatic stop-watch is a great artist and has held up well. That still looks great throughout execution, and while not industry-leading in any regard, is a stable 4Hz frequency movement having about 75 hours connected with power reserve. You can view the motion through the blue crystal window on the rear of the check out.